Lybia Rebranded: A Holiday Destination?

Colonel Gaddafi. He’s up there with Mugabe and Pinochet in the annals of nasty blokes what did things wrong. He also happens to be in charge of Lybia, a country currently attempting an international political renaissance. Entertain for a moment this potted history.

Does he look insane? No, don’t answer that….

After the discovery of oil in the early 1970s, Lybia became a darling of international trade. Colonel Gaddafi, who had risen to power through a coup, suddenly had access to almost unlimited funds. What would any sane leader of a country do with all this spare cash? Invest in infrastructure? Provide for the poor and homeless? How about providing the IRA with free weapons, among them over 1,000 AK-47s and a substantial number of rocket launchers? Throughout the 1980s and 1990s, Gaddafi funded the IRA’s operations, allowing them to occupy a position of unmitigated power.

One particular transaction was for £5 million. With these weapons, the IRA perpetrated some of its most infamous crimes, including the devastating Lockerbie bombing in which a commercial airliner carrying over 250 passengers was destroyed in mid-air. For years, the west and Libya locked horns. In 1986, Ronald Reagan ordered the bombing of Libya as an act of retaliation for Gaddafi’s alleged sponsorship of global terrorism. In response, Gaddafi claimed that if the US wanted to rid the world of terrorism, it should begin by bombing London.

He funded these guys – nice

In recent years, however, it appears Libya has executed a u-turn in its foreign policy. The motives for this remain unclear, and while things are going well, no one really wants to ask the question. A massive concession came in 2003, when the country accepted responsibility for the Lockerbie bombings and claimed it had abandoned efforts to create a nuclear arsenal, allowing UN weapons inspectors full access to its facilities. With this sea change in interantional relations, trade once again moved in. Both Shell and BP inked major new oil exploration and export deals with the country. Indeed, while internal reform is still moving at a snail’s pace, Libya is now an indispensible trade presence for the west.

Some have supposed this might have something to do with the recent release of the Lockerbie bomber back to his home country, a move that has had the families of the victims accusing the British government of putting pecuniary interests ahead of moral interests.

All about oil, as they say

Nevertheless, this rapid, increasingly intimate relationship between the major powers of the west and Libya now means it’s a thriving tourist destination. Only four hours flight from London, and with a rich architectural heritage, it has been a boon for history buffs. Two years ago, Saif al-Islam Gaddafi, Colonel Gaddifi’s son, announced a £1.5 billion plan to safeguard Libya’s extensive archaeological sites and to prevent overdevelopment of its relatively unspoilt coastline. Again, the motivations for this depend on who you talk to. This is not the only sign of progression in the country.

For a nation ruled by an iron hand, crime levels are remarkably low. Inexpensive transport is readily available and as a tourist destination it is easy to get around on foot. Lybia is also renowed for its swathes of unspoilt beaches and mediterranean climate.

For a dictatorship, crime is low, as you’d expect!

Some of the downsides include the ubiquity of images of Gaddafi wherever there is a sizeable population. Plastering your visage everywhere is de rigeur for any self-respecting dictator (is there any other kind?). He is depicted wearing African robes, Bedouin head-dress and mirrored sunglasses. It is enough to make anyone want a stiff drink but again, you will be left wanting – alcohol is outlawed in Lybia. Lybia is also a secular state, so some of the historical religious buildings are falling into disrepair through disinterest, undoubtedly a situation Saif al-Islam Gaddafi’s plan will seek to rectify. Simon Horsford, writing for the Telegraph, has this to say:

‘That may not sound too bad, but the country’s infrastructure is shambolic. The general view was that after an initial burst of enthusiasm, Colonel Gaddafi has been more concerned with his place in history than with his people’s welfare and, in particular, with the legacy of his beliefs and theories, expressed in his pompous Green Book (on sale everywhere for a few dinars).’

If you can tolerate the downsides, the rewards are handsome. Tripoli is the capital of Libya, a flowering city, rapidly expanding as the billions of dollars from international oil deals and the burgeoning tourist industry starts to get an economical foot hold. Accommodation in the capital remains fairly rustic – do not expect the polished, plush experience of some continental hotels. However, staff are generally friendly, if a little cautious (tourism is still a concept-in-progress for the Libyans) and as the country comes to depend more and more on tourism for its income, this situation is only going to improve. Some recommendations for a first-timer to Tripoli include a walk from the historic post office in Algeria Square down through September Street, where local boutiques, jewellery and clothing shops offer a sampling of the local culture. Galleria del Bono is an excellent location to savour some mint tea and a shisha pipe (do not try to avoid these, just enjoy them). Then head to Green Square, where you can visit Asai al Hamra, a huge castle that houses the museum of Tripoli and an extensive collection of antiquities, including mosaics and statues from archaeological digs in Leptis and Sabratha.

Tripoli is a great city though

Speaking of which, Lybia has some of the greatest archaeological sights in the world, including the renowned Leptis Magna. Second only to ancient Rome in decadence and debauchery, all that remains is a collection of studied, sand-covered fragments. Nevertheless, it is a fascinating place to visit, if only for its sense of history, and is only an hour’s drive from the capital. Sabratha is a similar destination which also offers a welcoming mix of proximity to civilisation and archaeological wonder. Word of warning: the world’s highest-ever shade temperature of 58°C was recorded in this area back in the 1920s, and mid-summer temperatures regularly hit the high forties. Ensure you take relevant precautions.

This is pretty cool as well

Libya is a country of contradictions and fascinations. If you can see past its ruler, its culture is home to some of the most fascinating historical and political sights in the world. As relations with the west further improve, despite recent tensions, it is likely that Libya will soon be one of the premier destinations for those looking for a little more adventure in their trip abroad.

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